Last regiment finished (for this year, at least...)

OK, so after two years I've finally given in to having a section of the FORUM specifically set up to discuss painting techniques, display examples, show your latest projects and chat about this vital part of the hobby. Manufacturers please feel free to post up your sculpts, ask questions about what the gamers are after and generally promote your work.. no charge! Painters, please also feel free to post up your work for comment and critique. I can't promise the unreserved adulation characteristic of some other fora but I would hope you'd get constructive and measured comment!
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Geudens
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Last regiment finished (for this year, at least...)

Post by Geudens » Sun Dec 29, 2013 9:53 am

1st Guards, Dixon 25/28mm:

Image
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Re: Last regiment finished (for this year, at least...)

Post by Gunfreak » Sun Dec 29, 2013 2:16 pm

I'm pleasantly suprised by the Dixon figures, either they are very good figures, or you are a fantastic painter(mabye both)

They look close to FR in scale and quality.
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Re: Last regiment finished (for this year, at least...)

Post by Geudens » Sun Dec 29, 2013 7:22 pm

Gunfreak wrote:I'm pleasantly suprised by the Dixon figures, either they are very good figures, or you are a fantastic painter(mabye both)

They look close to FR in scale and quality.
Thank you for your comment. (Sorry to say...) I'm not a fantastic painter, but - after more than 40 years of painting metal figures - I can state that I'm "experienced" :) . About the Dixon figures: they are smaller and less bulky than FR (but more bulky than Warfare or Ebor and about 26/27 mm if such scale would excist), but Dixon has two different types of figures: the above "Marlborough range" (also available with "brimmed hats" in his WSS range) and a range of "older" sculpts (see my post viewtopic.php?f=13&t=5429 ). Should you be interested in the figures pictured above but with brimmed hats, download both his WSS & MA catalogues and just look for figures using the same body but with hats instead of the MA tricorne. As far as I'm concerned, I'm very pleased with the Dixons (but I'm a fan of the Warfare ones as well :) - I have some and Ebor will follow one day too :) ) and Dixon's "army deals" are VERY good value for money.
Last edited by Geudens on Sun Dec 29, 2013 11:06 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Last regiment finished (for this year, at least...)

Post by Gunfreak » Sun Dec 29, 2013 8:38 pm

Can I ask for the colors you used on the reds?
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Re: Last regiment finished (for this year, at least...)

Post by Geudens » Sun Dec 29, 2013 10:35 pm

Gunfreak wrote:Can I ask for the colors you used on the reds?
In order to answer this correctly, I need to explain my fastpaint method to you...

My method is based (mostly) on the use of inks and reversing the usual paint process.

A. First the model is undercoated grey (cheap spraycans) and then the undercoat is "inked" with thinned acrylic purple. I have no pics of the process being used on WSS figures, but these Afghans will do just as well:
Image
grey primer applied
Image
Figures "inked" with thinned acrylic purple

You might also undercoat in black, if you really, really like heavy contrasts or if you are painting figures in full blank metal armour (you can then drybrush the metal on the black primer, but that's a well known thing).

B. Next, the whole figure is drybrushed in white. Do this carefully and evenly: it will determine the quality of your highlights and shades!
Image
Figures drybrushed with white

C. The figure is then inked with ink in the corresponding colours (for WSS mostly red, blue, grey or green - all available "from the shelf"), creating an instant and automatic shade (even for hands and faces). With some inks, you might need two layers (which is the case with red) but with others (skin) you need only one layer and the ink must be thinned a lot (I use water). The result involves no further shading or highlighting: that's were you gain time, because when you shade or highlight, there is always a considerable risk to touch areas painted in other colours...
This is the end result:
Image Image Image
After some practice, you can reduce your painting time to 50% or less (the less colours involved, the greater the time gain). The Afghans have a darker complexion than European troops, so the flesh ink used for European faces must be thinned a lot (you'll have to try out that one to see what result fits your needs, but it is at least 3/4 water).

In case of white clothing (e.g. pants, white coats), I do not use ink but cover these (after B.) with a layer of Valleyo Grey Shade. Muskets, bayonets etc are painted in acrylic (instead of inked) as are most of the facing colours of the uniforms, simply because this is a simpler option than mixing inks to obtain the correct shade :).

Make sure that the inks you use are water resistant! This is my pallet:
Winsor & Newton Calligraphic inks
GW inks
Vallejo inks
FW Acrylic Water-Resistant Artists Ink (30 colors, including light grey!)
Acrylic paints from Coat d'arms & Vallejo (but others might do just as well).
I have at least six brown inks of different manufacturers, but they all vary in colour, so it's well worth investing in these.

Hope this helps.

Rudi
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Re: Last regiment finished (for this year, at least...)

Post by yar68 » Mon Dec 30, 2013 5:41 am

That's an interesting way to (paint) figures Rudi. It certainly looks very effective. 8)
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Re: Last regiment finished (for this year, at least...)

Post by Geudens » Mon Dec 30, 2013 8:12 am

yar68 wrote:That's an interesting way to (paint) figures Rudi. It certainly looks very effective. 8)
Thank you. It works well for me and I find it especially fast & handy for painting faces (at which I'm not very good otherwise :) ).
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Re: Last regiment finished (for this year, at least...)

Post by jezamonos » Sun Jan 05, 2014 8:32 am

Very nice regiment. Never seen that paint technique before, will have to give it a go
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