League Of Augsburg - Fighting Talk

Gentlepersons, (musn't say men), I need your help with two problems.
First Varnish. I used to use Windsor and Newton Acryillic varnish but the new bottle dries glossy, (varnished figures I mean, not the bottle) no matter how much I shake it. So I tried the much lauded Dullcote. This doesn't dry glossy, it's almost reflective, I need sunglasses. Does anybody have any suggestions?
Second basing. I'm a white glue and sand man myself using 1/16th. ply for the bases themselves. Recently the wood has warped when I apply the stickum, a problem that didn't happen with the last sheet of ply I used, bought from the same shop.
Thanks in advance and everything you wish yourselves in the new year.

Hi, have you tried metal bases ? I've used them for all my 15mm figures. http://www.freewebs.com/pwsltd/steelbases.htm for the bases, and for pictures of my figures based up http://1699wellish.blogspot.com/

Hi First off the varnish. I have tried Dullcote with no problems, but I have now moved to Army painter matt varnish, because a, it is matt and b, costs about a 1/3rd of the price of Dullcote.

Bases, I am also a PVA and sand man and apart from the bases for my WSS figures I usually use artists mounting board. Usually dark green on a white board. I always mount the figures on the white side and have not had any problems. And that is mounting up to 60 x 80 bases.





All these are done that way.

For years I used an acrylic varnish but found that, after a while, the covering was not very durable as well as not being completely matt. Recently -within the last six months that is- I have swapped to using Ronseal Ultra Tough Hardglaze Clear Varnish which is a polyurethane gloss varnish bought from my local large DIY store. This gives a nice smooth, even coat (No I am not a judge at Crufts!) as a base and follow that with a coat or two of Daler-Rowney Soluble Matt Varnish obtainable from any good art shop. With a really good stir and a shake to mix up the inevitable sediment at the bottom I have found that it dries flatter than the proverbial witches body parts. Both of these need thinners as a cleaning agent but I jut keep a special brush and a small, lidded bottle of turps to one side.

For years I used an acrylic varnish but found that, after a while, the covering was not very durable as well as not being completely matt. Recently -within the last six months that is- I have swapped to using Ronseal Ultra Tough Hardglaze Clear Varnish which is a polyurethane gloss varnish bought from my local large DIY store. This gives a nice smooth, even coat (No I am not a judge at Crufts!) as a base and follow that with a coat or two of Daler-Rowney Soluble Matt Varnish obtainable from any good art shop. With a really good stir and a shake to mix up the inevitable sediment at the bottom I have found that it dries flatter than the proverbial witches body parts. Both of these need thinners as a cleaning agent but I jut keep a special brush and a small, lidded bottle of turps to one side. All my figures are now varnished in this fashion.

Winsor & Newton Galeria - Acrylic Matt varnish - brush applied.
I don't use anything else.. would definitely not use a spray varnish of any kind.

I use Moana Matt Varnish in a spray can. It is unfortunately only available in NZ as far as I know. Completely matt and good to use. They don't seem to have a website.

The only reliably Matt varnish I have ever used is Humbrol. Normally though like Barry I use Winsor & newton.

Windsor & Newton 'Galleria' Acrylic matte varnish (brush applied), followed by Testor's Dullcote spray, once the figures have been based, for the final matte coat. Leave the W&N Varnish to 'separate' for a bit, after purchase, and pour off the clear 'carrier' fluild, then shake the hell out of it before use. Follow the instructions on the Dullcote spray (e.g., 20-21*C temperature, and windless conditions after a thorough shaking, at 12"+ spraying range), and you're good to go with the most matte finish available with current technology.

Galleria is the only way to go. Use the one that comes in the big plastic bottle with the yellow cap (cheaper than the small glass bottles and better consistency). Don't work it in or it will dry glossy, just lay it on and leave it. It will take about 24 hours to cure.

If you want a really flat spray then the varnish sold by Figurws in Comfort does the job (if they still sell it). Personally I think it is a little too matt and kills the colour on the figures.

Pat

I was wondering - Has anyone had any issues with particular varnish brands (or types) yellowing? Is the W&N stuff mentioned above one of those brands which specifically don't yellow?

Cheers - John

Haven't ever noticed that

Over what period of time John?

I have figures that I varnished with W&N over two years ago and no sign of yellowing.

Pat

Sorry Barry - I wasn't trying to cause alarm.

Just an idle question. One of those unknowns I worry about sometimes - especially as I tend to use a standard hardware store brand. I suppose I was wondering if people with miniatures they painted - say - more than five years ago had any words of warning?

From memory I think it's the old style (often intended for wood) varnishes which contain shellac that tend to yellow with time. I don't think it's an issue with 'modern' multipurpose hardware varnishes - and certainly not acrylics intended for art works. But never the less I have heard a few second hand stories of yellowing, and was just wondering if anyone had any bad experiences.

(I've got a dim memory of someone posting on here who was having yellowing varnish problems - but that must have been well over a year ago)

I have used most matt varnish( including Winsor & Newton - Acrylic Matt varnish) over many years (30)and they have all gone yellow ( stick out over white areas) after time.
What to do? under general is a example(Humbrol matt varnish)
I gave up using matt varnish and only use GW varnish spray (Hiss )
. GW has failed some times due to low temperature, bad mix, or first spray eg too thick, but i have learned to have some white spirits around for these problem.
It does have a sheen to it but goes after 6 months to a matt and has never gone yellow in 15 years
maybe i am using the wrong method to put on the matt varnish? i only ever used up to 2/3 of the pots , mixed well and did not put it on too thick?
but i am happy now with the varnish i use (if only i could buy it cheeper ) and that is the important thing, knowing it wont yellow in 5 years after all that hard work.
If there was a perfect matt varnish i would use it, still looking